09-28-2021
Nene's Deli Taqueria
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Brooklyn
Birria tacos
Birria tacos are officially a thing in New York. Just like 4 years after they became a thing in southern California.
You may remember my ravings about the first birria place to hit this city, Birria Landia (known at the time as "Beefria Landia"), just a little bit after I moved here. It's a whole long story and I don't want to rehash all of it. The bullet points are: birria tacos start appearing all over my Instagram feed, almost all of which are in and around LA; I look up where I can find some in NYC, and only one place, Birria Landia, existed at that point, and had literally just opened like a week or two before; we take a trip out to some crazy nowhere neighborhood in Queens* and are completely blown away by these tacos.
Anyway now it seems like the rest of the city has caught up. It first started in the direct vicinity of Birria Landia, with every taco shop and truck (and at least one pizza place) on that block advertising birria tacos of their own, seemingly hoping to, I don't know, trick people into thinking they were the real birria place? Meanwhile, a handful of more legitimate places have popped up as well. I imagine the pandemic has made the process a lot slower for these joints, since I would've imagined they all would've appeared about a year and a half ago instead of Summer 2021.
So one of these places is Nene's Deli Taqueria, on pretty regular street deep into Bushwick (but only on the very fringe of the cool part of Bushwick). It's an interesting place; it clearly was and is just a regular old corner deli, that took out all of the deli grill area and put their money all into birria. Because despite being called a taqueria, really birria is the only thing on the menu. In taco form, in quesadilla form, mulita, torta, pizza(!), it's all birria.
And it's great! Tastes great. I have no complaints whatsoever.
The big question of course is: Is it better than Birria Landia? No, I don't think so. It's close! But I tell you, the pure mind-warping pleasure I got from Landia that first time (and subsequent times) is a nearly impossible high to reach. It's no critique that they didn't quite get there. Actually my biggest takeaway from the place was their red salsa that came with the order. It was a peanut based salsa, and it was outstanding.
Anyway if you're in or around Bushwick and want a piece of the birria action, by all means hit up Nene's.
* I now live in this nowhere neighborhood in Queens. The Birria Landia truck is about 3 blocks from here. The only thing that keeps me from eating there every single night is that there is constantly a line down the block to get it; the only times we've eaten there since moving here have been in the middle of snowstorms and rainstorms and single-digit temperatures.